When the Sew Over It summer capsule ebook came out, I was a litttttttle (read a lot!) excited. I have one of the previous capsule books from them and just love the style and being able to combine the designs. The ebook comes with five patterns – two dresses (both of which can be split into tops and one a skirt), a jumpsuit (which can be top and bottom), a jacket and a skirt. I loved all the patterns in the book but one thing that particularly caught my eye was the Sienna Dress in its skirt form made out of a beautiful blue embroidered edge fabric, it just fit perfectly with my Mediterranean capsule style. And then fate intervened, I was scrolling through the Instagram I saw the announcement that SewOverIt had the fabric in stock. Eeeeek!! So you can imagine how quickly that fabric went into the bag along with the ebook.
The fabric was just as beautiful in person as it was online, it’s a very floaty viscose with a light embroidered hem on both edges so I had plenty to play with. The problem came when I taped together the PDF pattern and looked at the hem – it’s doesn’t have a straight bottom edge. Hmmm. The fabric has an embroidered edge so it cant be cut, but if I cut the pattern pieces as is, it would either have to be off-grain or with a wonky hemline. As this was going to be an exact replica of the skirt in the SewOverIt ebook I gave them an email to ask how they had cut it out. They replied very quickly to say that they had altered the pattern and how to do the same, apparently, there will be a blog post on this coming out at some point but in the meantime if anyone does want to make the skirt/dress with edged fabric do give them an email they were super helpful!
Now that I had the pattern pieces sorted I then had to cut the fabric which was actually not the easiest due to the fabric choice. The pattern pieces aren’t complicated but because of the embroidery which is much heavier than the supper floaty viscose fabric, it shifts as you cut it and pulls out of alignment. I did mine on a table but I would recommend doing it on the floor so that there are fewer places for the embroidery to pull. As the shapes are fairly simple being slightly off-grain would make it hang completely wrong (if I stood still for too long you may notice that one side is a few cms longer at the front due to being slightly off-grain- shhh!).
Once I had the pieces cut out the skirt came together really quickly and easily – also no hemming! I may have to make all future makes in embroidered edge fabric for this very reason! The only wait was for the lovely buttons from Minerva Fabrics which I thought complimented the embroidered edge really nicely. I don’t think there is anything around the making process that was scary- it’s more down the fabric I chose which was quite fiddly.
I am really happy with how the Sew Over It Sienna skirt has turned out and have found it being a regular in my daily wardrobe. Wearing it has pointed a few things that I want to adjust for the next one I make. The first thing of note is that when wearing this skirt you stride length may need to be reduced or you may face an issue that can be seen in the picture below:
Yes, that is where a button should be so I am going to need to think of some way (apart from walking very carefully) to stop this happening, reinforcement maybe or just adding a little more fullness which would also alter the silhouette which I wouldn’t want to do :/ . The next thing that I want to edit is this funny gap that I get just below the first button just under the waistband. I suspect this could be fixed with button placement and just putting one right underneath the waistband. At the moment I have been using a safety pin which works well so I could just add a button to the reverse of the top layer and a buttonhole on the bottom in the safety pin’s place.
The final thing about this skirt that I’m not entirely happy with is that there isn’t a huge amount of overlap of the front pieces and as I have previously mentioned it’s not the most voluminous skirt. Therefore if, like me, you have a posterior which maybe changes shape when you sit down and therefore pulls on the button area it does gape a bit and could potentially lead to some accidental revealing. I think my solution will just be wearing a slip underneath as I really love the silhouette and don’t really want to change anything which would fundamentally alter the skirt.
Changes I made
- I adjusted for a boarder hem fabric which meant adjusting the pattern pieces using instructions emailed by the SewOverIt team.
- The shape- I love the silhouette of this skirt and therefore, despite the pitfalls that I mentioned that are primarily due to the cut, I wouldn’t make changes to the overall skirt.
- The fabric/design – I know this isn’t a pattern feature however, as it was the fabric that Sew Over It styled it in that attracted me to it in the first place I feel that I need to mention it! I just really love it!
- Ease/fit – the waist is pretty much a perfect fit on me based on the measurement chart.
- The pockets – really cute shape and add something a little different to skirt without adding bulk or lines in strange places. Note that they aren’t really usable pockets for anything heavier than a tissue as it pulls the shape out!
Not so good things about the pattern
- Fabric – again not the pattern but just a note for anyone making this pattern with an embroidered hem (or just a shifty viscose) you need to make sure that it is cut completely on grain. Thinking about it this applies to all projects but it is particularly noticeable on this one.
- Not being the pattern you print out- as I mentioned I had to go to Sew Over It directly to be able to copy the pattern picture. Not the end of the world and the team were really lovely but still.
- The button tearing – limited stride length. The pattern having limited stride length does slightly annoy me and I still need to get the button darned and fixed!
- Gaping when you sit – It’s going to happen with a button front skirt just to be aware of.
- Button gap – fixable but I would ignore the pattern placement of the buttons or add an inward-facing button.
Recommendations for making the Sew Over It Sienna Skirt
- Stride length – be aware of it or add more fullness if you think you will need it!
- Add an extra inside button to stop button gaping.
- Get really good interfacing – there is no button placket and therefore as the interfacing is only sewn down on one side(where you finish the raw edge) mine has peeled off and there is nothing much I can do :/
Overall marks:Fit-7/10 Style-9/10 Instructions-5/10 Ease- 8/10 Finished garment- 7/10
I gave the skirt this score as I felt having to alter the pattern was annoying and the faults with the gaping brought it down a bit (hence the fit and instruction marks). Overall though I suspect I will be making this again next summer – perhaps a dress version? Also doesn’t it go well with my Seamwork savannah top? Win for the Mediterranean capsule!
See you next week with another make from this ebook!